An amazing thing happened here a few weeks ago. Traffic lights went back on. No more than a half-dozen of them, but in a city of rubble where so little works, they were a potent symbol of change. After years of war, the battered capital of Chechnya has been slowly climbing out of the abyss in recent months. New cafes and shops have opened, pensions and salaries are being paid and some demolished buildings are being rebuilt. But new violence has shattered the tentative sense of stability. The assassination of Chechnya’s pro-Russian president, Akhmad Kadyrov, in an explosion on Sunday has scared most Grozny residents off the streets and back behind locked doors where they huddle in anticipation of a new wave of mayhem. Full Story
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